There's a huge difference between these shophouses at Jalan Besar and those "manicured" ones along Tg Pagar Road and elsewhere . But it is precisely this drabness which gives them life.
Old shophouses still sporting the old tiles and sculpted decorations. Many old world coffee shops to choose from :)
Swee Choon has been around for the last 50 years. Well known and much blogged about. Opens from 6pm to 6am. No wonder it was closed and shuttered when I was there around noon.
An old clan association can still be found here.